Updated: Oct 31
By Olivia Madrid
It is announced that Simone Rocha will be the next guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture. Paris will welcome Rocha’s interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier’s work in the upcoming months, where she is known for her romantic creations that embody a subversive take on femininity.
Rocha, who had her eponymous debut in 2010, has developed a dreamy and whimsical style throughout her career. Now marketed as “coquette-core”, frills, tulle, pearls and bows adorn her collections, creating a mass following for her feminine and romantic clothing. In 2021, Rocha collaborated with H&M, creating frilly dresses and adding her personal touch to a casual summer outfit, leading to the website crashing.
Rocha has recently noted her inspiration from the Irish tradition of Lughnasadh. Lughnasadh is an autumn festival where traditional games, music, markets, and dancing occur. This comes from Irish folklore, surrounding women and harvesting. Rocha had explained in an interview with Bazaar that the idea is “this kind of teenage folklore, but set today, in this idea of realism.”
Gaultier urged surrounding industry talent to reinterpret his often provocative and theatrical designs, following his retirement which was announced in 2020. He has recruited designers to design each year for haute couture collections for the house. Among those designers are Chitose Abe, Olivier Rousteing, Glenn Martens, Haider Ackermann, and Julien Dossena.
Similar to Gaultier’s designs, Rocha’s designs have always been tailored toward young teen street punks, as opposed to those in the one percent. Furthermore, both Gautlier and Rocha’s wearable fantasy designs have created a world where gender is ambiguous, yet retain feminine elements and sweet references to bondage at the same time.
Rocha’s one-of-a-kind collection will be on the runway for Paris Couture Week in January 2024.