By Olivia Madrid
Image of Rolf Ekroth models sourced from Copenhagenfashionweek.com
Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off Jan. 29, with many designers following the trends of the weather. The Nordic cold and reminiscence of days past was what gave inspiration to most designers on the schedule. From knits to denim, here are the best collections from Copenhagen Fashion Week and the trends to continue:
Rolf Ekroth
Rolf Ekroth found his rhythm when it came to knitwear. In this knit-rich homey collection, the designer drew inspiration from Nordic patterns and even teamed up with a yarn company called Novita to hand out kits to aspiring knitters this season. While Ekroth shared backstage with Vogue that he’s not a knitter himself, he was surprised to find that “20% of the Finnish population do some sort of knitting.” Despite not being a knitter, Ekroth boasted his creativity and craftsmanship with knits featuring whimsical birds and rustic elements and closed the show with a matching knit set adorned with handcrafted snowballs created by Ekroth and his parents. A Barbour-style jacket featured a tufted back, reminiscent of the designer's grandmother's “’80s velvet couch," where family gatherings to watch Winter Olympics and other snow sports were a cherished tradition. He included more personalized items, featuring a Super Mario 8-bit graphic — a playful nod to another of Ekroth's favorite pastimes. To add a cherry on top, he adds a playful touch of the word “Rakas,” to a simple tee, which translates to “dear one” or “love.”
Nicklas Skovgaard
Skovgaard returned for his sophomore season, bringing an exaggerated sense of Victorian style, merged with ’80s fashion, with high shoulder pads, pleated midi skirts, and suede-accented leather bomber jackets. Although the 29-year-old designer didn’t live through the wondrous era of ’80s fashion, he credits a muse for the voluminous looks presented: his mom. Last season, Skovgaard presented a lively one-woman show performed by Britt Liberg. This year, she was backed by a group, and they dazzled in big, teased up-dos, leg warmers and charming heels. Skovgaard’s designs took up a lot of space, with designs like a black bubble-like dress. The show closed on a softer note, with a white, frilly and fuzzy look paired with an equally wild hairdo.
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Caroline Engelgaar and her team at Mark Kenly Domino Tan had taken classics to the sky — literally. Engelgaar tells Vogue, “You’re allowed to dream, even though the world is [so] hard right now. Some days you’re just like, ‘What are we doing in fashion?’ But for me, it’s very much about courage.” It made sense that the airiness of these looks, some partnered with umbrellas or large knit scarves, was inspired by daring aviator Amelia Earhart. Pants tucked in boots prove these looks to be exactly the dreamy, yet aviation classical designs that Engelgaar envisioned. An elegant color-blocked knit dress, with an ivory front and blue back, evoked the timeless elegance of a Doric column. In an era of consistency as the world continues to fall into fragments, designers are embracing classical motifs like pillars and sculptures as steadfast references. As Engelgaar's confidence flourishes, so do her garments, as this season is sure to elevate the brand's reputation.
Paolina Russo
Following their win of the inaugural Zalando Visionary Award last season, the London-based brand Paolina Russo made their sophomore return, where they used their collection to highlight the city's expanding global audience and its commitment to sustainability. With their label's international appeal in mind, design duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard are embracing the opportunity to travel with their brand. This season's collection, titled "Cul-de-Sac," delves into Russo and Guilmard's respective upbringings on dead-end streets in a Toronto suburb and on the west coast of France. Continuing the prehistoric theme from last season, the designers collaborated with Danish artist Esben Weile Kjær, where they orchestrated a performance in which models interacted with sun and animal-shaped balloons. Russo and Guilmard showcased their signature illusion knitwear and sporty spandex separates while introducing new silhouettes, including a playful gathered miniskirt layered over joggers and versatile wrap cardigans. The color palette evoked a wintry ambiance, featuring earthy tones and soft pastel hues inspired by the subtle rainbows formed when light dances on snow. Craftsmanship and eco-conscious techniques took center stage, with pom-pom embellishments crafted from leftover yarn and woven dresses naturally dyed in Scotland using a method involving ice cubes and powder pigments. It's clear that Paolina Russo is confident of its future, as Russo shares, "Copenhagen is just the beginning."
Stamm
Elizabeth Stamm has always been personal with her designs, but this season's collection brought her work-life balance to a new light. Stamm invited guests to a behind-the-scenes look into her busy life, with the set design being scattered with typical daily objects, including a drawing from her child Svante, a supermarket bag, a water bottle, houseplants and a sofa. Her collection followed the pattern of a busy single mother — with a focus on streetwear style. She created over-the-top puffers, muted by neutral tones, as well as a few denim pieces with scenes of a “normal” daily life. The collection was a clear expression of finding the beauty in the bland, showcasing the typical, not the flashy fashion world.
Won Hundred
Won Hundred made its name for its brilliant denim reworking styles, but this year it truly solidified its expertise in denim fashion. Won Hundred’s 20th anniversary was celebrated by digging into the archives of their previous collections like their iconic slim-cut jean being reworked into a baggier silhouette. Designer Nikolaj Nielsen brought more materials to this collection, as leather bomber jackets were a hit. He also brought in 100% recycled nylon for his puffer jackets' debut. He was given a “‘Bionic-Finish Eco’ that imbues water resistance without chemical treatment,” according to the Wallpaper. Nielsen tells them, “We’ve taken time to understand what Won Hundred truly represents. Now, we’re ready to unleash the full potential of our work, channeling our collective experiences into [this] collection and drawing inspiration from the past two decades.”
Baum und Pferdgarten
Commemorating its 25th anniversary this season, Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave launched their label in 1999 (as referenced by the "Since 99" jumper in the latest collection.) Back then, Copenhagen's fashion scene was sparse, devoid of the street style and social media frenzy that characterizes today's landscape. It was an era of experimentation, where brands could push boundaries without restraint. Baumgarten reminisced about their first fashion show in 2005, describing it as "crazy," with each look pushing the envelope further. From voluminous silhouettes, bold prints, and frills to more tailored ensembles, their designs reflect the dynamic interplay between Baumgarten's playful sensibility and Hestehave's minimalist ethos, which forms the core of the brand. But for Fall 2024, Baum and Hestehave revisited some archival pieces: a white shift dress from two decades ago adorned with rose motifs, a signature double-breasted coat that received a fresh update featuring zebra print and pinstripe tailoring, boxy white shirts, and sleek black dresses. This deliberate shift reflects Baumgarten and Hestehave's acknowledgment of their customers' growing concerns about fashion's environmental impact. They shared with Vogue that, "As designers, it's crucial to be bold and make these adjustments. The world is changing, and people are increasingly prioritizing sustainability in their fashion choices. We must respond to this shift. A collection doesn't have to encompass every aspect of a wardrobe." As the brand embarks on this more thoughtful chapter, marked by a surprise confetti explosion during the finale, it's evident that there's much to celebrate.